Documents associated with: costume, clothes
Record 6 of 19
Correspondent Illustrated London News -
plate - small dies
pen sketch - Dilberoglue -
Winsor & Newton -
[Gretchen?] - Write to Lucas
41 Rue de [l'Arc?] -
[illegible] - write to Vernier
write Lallouette Castelor
[illegible] Mercier - write at once to
Winsor & Newton - Ask about Etching Club plates
[62. C C ?]
NB. The London Prentice
Seaton - (Red) Lion -
Ticket by Direct Exeter
from Waterloo - to Axminster
Colyton, buss [sic] to Seaton
[pp. 3-6 torn out]
[p. 8: pencil drawing, Giant Pine Tree]
[p. 9] California - Murphys valley 15 miles from the "big trees", and connecting the Foot Hills, with Sierra Nevada - Pines and arbor-vitae - About 90 in number, are baptised- "Beauty of the Forest" &c - The hotel on the spot contains a ball room whose floor is the stump of one of these trees, 27 feet in diameter - "Mother of the Forest" 93. feet in circumference, 325 feet high: "Hercules" 97 feet in circ.
Red Lion Court
|4. 0 5.|
|1 7 6|
|3. 0. 5|
|4. 0 5.|
[p. 15, drawing, Bay with cliffs]
[p. 16, drawing, Caves in a headland]
[p. 17, drawing, Woman playing the piano]
[p. 18, drawing, Figure standing on a rock beside a stormy sea]
[pp. 19-22 missing]
|Pay . .1.00|
[p. 25, drawing, Suspension Bridge]
Cailloux - 57.
Ferdinand Bol - [Lepr?]
[p. 29, drawing, Boats sailing towards a suspension bridge]
14. Yards - dress-
8 widths - in skirts -
Lawn 11.y[ards]. 3/4.
5 widths - 6 if possible
Sleves [sic] to be made the with [sic] of the Muslin.
[p. 33] 41. Jermyn St.
Placed to my account
|694. " "|
Drew from Dil -
|22. 0 0|
|85: 0 0|
Carpet width 1.6
Top Carpet 12. X yds
Lower Carpet. 12. -
rods - 2 & 2.
wind[ow]. rods - 2.4. [illegible]
Top - 23.
16 Arthur St -
[1 S ?] - Camberwell Gate
[p. 40, drawing, Figures in the bows of a boat on the river]
[p. 42, drawing, Two heads]
[p. 43, drawing, Wapping]
[p. 45, drawing, Lady with page and courtier, in Tudor dress]
[p. 46] Le Boeuf de Rembrant fut achete dans une vente [illegible] chez [illegible words] pour la somme de 19.0.0. -
48. [Bollings Worth?]
45 Albemarle Street
[Pasny?] - [diamond merchant?] -
Lucas - 6 Cork St
1 Victoria Rd Cole
[JAS ?] Swain -  Bouverie
Rolfe - 22. Robert St - Kings Rd
1oz. Clory. 1/2 drch. Varnish
1. [c. 1862/1864]
This bound notebook contains the passport issued to JW on 28 July 1855 (#04325) which bears date stamps up to 6 October 1859. The notebook was definitely in use early in 1862 and probably up to 1864, but it was not used consecutively and may cover a wider period.
2. England, France, Holland and Spain
London and Paris addresses are interspersed with addresses and itineraries for planned trips to Exeter, Axminster, Colytown and Seaton; Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and the Hague; Biarritz and St Jean de Luz.
This leather bound notebook, manufactured by Carter and Bromley, London, also contains JW's passport (#04325). The cover is stamped 'PASSPORT' in gold, but the linen backed passport could have been added separately. The notebook is made up of thin paper, with most notes written by JW in pencil, but some names, notes and addresses in other hands. The notebook was used over several years, the paper is yellowed, some sheets are loose, and the pencil is rubbed and faint.
4. Illustrated London News
7. Winsor & Newton
Windsor & Newton, suppliers of artists' materials.
P. and D. (Paul and Dominic) Colnaghi, Scott and Co., printsellers, then at 13 and 14 Pall Mall East, London SW.
This is probably one of many records of JW's finances.
George Aloysius Lucas (1824-1909), art dealer in Paris [more]. Lucas moved to 41 rue de l'Arc de Triomphe in 1861. The address is barely legible: indeed, it looks more like '41 Garde' than '41 l'Arc'.
13. Lallouette Castelor
J. M. Lalouette (d. 1871), restaurant owner at 5 rue de l'Odéon, Paris [more]. On 6 May 1862 Lalouette replied to JW's letter of 22 April (which has not been located) about settling JW's affairs in Paris (#02476). The meaning of 'Castelor' is not clear.
17. The London Prentice
The 'London Apprentice' was a public house in London E.C.
18. Seaton - (Red) Lion
Seaton is on the south coast of Cornwall, due west of Plymouth, and seven miles east of Looe. There is no other record of this trip. However, the idiosyncratic landscape Green and Silver: The Devonshire Cottages (YMSM 266) could have been painted as early as 1862. For instance, the brushwork on the trees is comparable to that in A White Note (YMSM 44), which dates from October/November 1862. When JW touched up and signed Green and Silver: The Devonshire Cottages (YMSM 266) in 1895, he referred to it as having been owned for 'all these years' by his brother, Dr. W. Whistler (see #06733, #07018, #06734). It has been assumed that JW painted it on the way to or from St. Ives in 1883-84, but stylistically it could date from this much earlier trip.
Morgan of Morgan Brothers, druggist's sundrymen, manufacturers and dealers in surgical instruments. The firm manufactured a number of items, including surgical instruments, which JW could have used in the preparation and execution of etching plates.
According to Arthur Severn (1842-1931), painter [more], JW painted The Last of Old Westminster (YMSM 39) from his brother's rooms in Manchester Buildings, overlooking the Thames at Westminster Bridge (see Pennell, Elizabeth Robins, and Joseph Pennell, The Life of James McNeill Whistler, 2 vols, London and Philadelphia, 1908, p. 100-101). The painting was started in or after February 1862 and completed in essence by July. Kelly's London Postal Directory for 1862 lists Arthur, Walter Severn (1830-1904), artist [more], and their sister Mary, all artists, living at 83A Ecclestone Square, off the Begrave Road, London S.W. No-one was actually listed as living at 11 Manchester Buildings until 1864, when John Baldry Redman, a civil engineer, lived there. However, Kelly's Directories were not entirely accurate (and indeed in 1863 they brought out a second edition to remedy errors), so Severn might have had rooms or an office there.
23. Murphys Valley
The pine trees in this area south-east of Sacramento are famous for their size and longevity.
24. Red Lion Court
There are three Red Lion Courts in London, one in Spitalfields, another in the City at 19 Watling Street, and the most likely one, at 169 Fleet Street, at the centre of the publishing and wood-engraving trades.
These sums were written in ink. They may record debts in French francs, working out, in this case, that the debtor owed 75.57 1/2 francs.
Calculations of debts, in pounds sterling, working out that the debtor owed £1.19.0. Either JW did not trust his mental arithmetic, or was confused by the currencies involved.
JW was converting guineas to pounds sterling. Twelve pence made a shilling, twenty shillings a pound, twenty-one shillings, a guinea.
The significance of this list of names (Lalau, Castal, Ruback, Winsor and Fordsbük) is not clear. Winsor might possibly refer to Windsor and Newton, already mentioned on p. 1. JW may have been calculating debts, which, when substracted from an income of £315.0.0, left £200.0.0: or income, leaving a debit of £200.0.0.
31. Septber 28 Jim done the Block
Written in an unknown, semi-literate hand, possibly that of Joanna Hiffernan (b. ca 1843), JW's model and mistress [more]. She posed for JW's illustration The Nun in 'Count Burkhardt' (M.306). This was published in E. L., 'Count Burkhardt,' Once a Week, VII, 27 September 1862, pp. 376-78, p. 378. JW was paid £9 per drawing. This one was engraved on the wood-block by the Dalziel Brothers.
34. Chapman X 2.4
Possibly George R. Chapman (b. 1834), artist [more], or Alfred Chapman (1839-1917), engineer and collector [more]. The 'X' appears to have been written in another hand, and possibly at a later date, than the name. It may refer to payment of a debt or subscription.
36. Edwards. D. 2
By 1861 JW was very friendly with Edwin Edwards (1823-1879), lawyer, painter and etcher [more]. The 'D', like the 'X' written above, appears to have been written in another hand, and possibly at a later date, than the name. It may refer to payment of a debt or subscription.
37. Aux Archives
Fr., in the Archives. The significance of this reference is unclear.
38. Mountainous coastline
Mountainous coastline, Passport (M.298). Between 1862 and 1864 JW visited the coast around Dieppe and Biarritz in France, the Dutch coast en route to Amsterdam, and probably the English coast in Devon and Cornwall. Although in the catalogue raisonné it was suggested that this could be the coast near Dieppe, it is more likely to be in the Basses-Pyrénées. It is very like the drawing on the opposite page (p. 15).
42. Figure standing on a rock beside a stormy sea
Figure standing on a rock beside a stormy sea, Passport (M.298). This rough sketch may be related to JW's paintings at Guéthary, Basses-Pyrénées, in October or November 1862 (see #07951).
Sum written in ink.
44. Venus Victrix
The statue of the Venus de Milo is in the Louvre, Paris.
46. Mquis de Rivière
Marquis de Rivière, probably Léonce-Marie Gabriel Philipin de Piepape de Percey de Rivière.
JW visited Amsterdam with A. Legros in May 1863, and with F. S. Haden in the autumn (Heijbroek, J. F. and Margaret F. MacDonald, Whistler and Holland, Zwolle and Amsterdam, 1997, pp. 49-50).
48. J. de Vos
There are several artists of the name Jan de Vos including Jan de Vos, a portrait painter from Leyden who died in 1663, or the printmaker, Jan Willem de Vos (1803-1833), who died in Amsterdam.
JW made a quick visit to an exhibition in Rotterdam early in 1864 ([Exhibition], Rotterdam, 1864; see #09505; Heijbroek, J. F. and Margaret F. MacDonald, Whistler and Holland, Zwolle and Amsterdam, 1997, p. 53.
51. Harriet, epicier
Harriet, a grocer or greengrocer. Épicier, Fr., grocer.
52. Dorbe, boulanger
Dorbe, a baker. Boulanger, Fr., baker.
53. Vve Barnetch
Widow 'Barnetch', Barnetche or Barniche, 'ferblantier' (tin-plater) was in the Fabourg du Temple 1855-1859, and at 148 rue St Maur-Popincourt 1860-1863. 'Vve' is an abbreviation of 'veuve', Fr., widow.
Hendrick Abraham Klinkhamer (1810-1872), landscape painter, designer and print-maker [more]. There is no record of JW actually visiting the print-room at the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam, in 1863. However, his intention was to see the Rembrandt etchings and he obtained the names of the Curators of the Print Room, so it seems likely that he spent time in the Print Room.
Dubourg, possibly an early Dutch acquaintance of JW.
Weissenbruchstraat and Raamstraat are both in Amsterdam. The first six lines on this page were written in an unknown hand, the first three being written over 'Cailloux - 57'.
Fr., stones. Possibly JW hoped to buy or sell diamonds in Amsterdam, and indeed, on p. 46 there is a reference to a diamond merchant.
Hardenburg, possibly A. or H. Hardenburg, writers.
In the autumn of 1863 JW's Thames etchings were awarded a gold medal at the Hague School of Art, [Exhibition], Amsterdam, 1863.
Fr., Japan. JW collected oriental art in France and Holland, and searched for Dutch and Japanese paper on which to print his etchings.
63. Ferdinand Bol
Ferdinand Bol (1616-1680), painter [more]. There are works by Bol in the Mauritshuis, including a fine portrait of Admiral de Ruyter. However, it was most noted for its collection of the work of Rembrandt.
67. G. W.
Probably short for George William Whistler (1822-1869), engineer, JW's half-brother [more]. No. 156 Strand had a changing clientele including, in 1862, Edward Webber's tobacconist's shop, in 1864, R. H. Jewesson, solicitor, and William Alfred Cranston, engraver on wood, and by 1865, The Estates Bank. It may have been a convenient meeting place, or George might have taken lodgings there.
68. Boats sailing towards a suspension bridge
Boats sailing towards a suspension bridge, Passport (M.298). The notes on this page were written over the drawing. The drawing looks as if it was drawn from a boat, possibly on the Thames or in the Netherlands. The sheet is loose.
These notes on making up a dress were written in brown crayon. It is possible that the materials were intended for an outfit for Jo Hiffernan. Du Maurier noted in February 1862, 'Joe came with him [...] got up like a duchess, without crinoline - the mere making up of her bonnet by Madame somebody or other in Paris cost 50fr. And Jimmy describes all the Parisians on the boulevard as aghast at 'la belle Anglaise'!' Du Maurier, Daphne, ed., The Young George du Maurier: A Selection of his Letters, 1860-67, London, 1951, p. 105.
This semi-literate note is written in an unknown hand, possibly that of Joanna Hiffernan.
71. Ithurbide Fils
Ithurbide Fils; unidentified. This name and address is written in an unknown hand.
72. St. Jean de Luz
St. Jean de Luz is a small fishing port in the Basses-Pyrénées, 21 k. from Bayonnes. In October-December 1862 JW intended to visit Madrid but got no further than Fuenterrabia. Instead he worked in Guéthary and Biarritz.
73. Maison Gardères
The best hotel in Biarritz.
According to E. Chappell, unidentified, in 1862 JW fell ill, and Dr John Chapman (1822-1894), London Metropolitan Free Hospital [more], 'recommended a journey to the Pyrenees, where some of his family were spending the winter.' Pennell, Elizabeth Robins, and Joseph Pennell, The Life of James McNeill Whistler, 2 vols, London and Philadelphia, 1908, vol. 1, p. 95; Spencer, Robin, 'Whistler's Early Relations with Britain and the Significance of Industry and Commerce for his Art. Part II,' The Burlington Magazine, vol. 136, no. 1099, October 1994, pp. 219-220.
75. 41. Jermyn St.
At this period, 1861-65, this was a lodging house run by Joseph Heffingham.
It is possible that this is a cryptic reference to Henry Moore (1831-1895), marine and landscape painter and etcher [more], whom JW saw as a rival in the painting of seascapes. He did not meet Albert Joseph Moore (1841-1893), painter [more], until 1865. This note was written with the book the other way up, and may have been written at a later date.
78. once a week
This note may not be in JW's hand. Woodcuts from five of JW's drawings were published in the weekly journal Once a Week in 1862 (M.302, 304-307). They are: 'A. M. H.', 'The Major's Daughter,' Once a Week, VI, 21 June 1862, pp. 710-14; Whistler, J. A. McN., wood engraving after, 'The Relief Fund in Lancashire. A Commendation,' Once a Week, VII, 26 July 1862, p. 140; Thornbury, Walter, 'The Morning Before the Massacre of St. Bartholomew. August 1572,' Once a Week, VII, 16 August 1862, pp. 210-11; E. L., 'Count Burkhardt,' Once a Week, VII, 27 September 1862, pp. 376-78.
79. Maj[or's] daughter
'A. M. H.', 'The Major's Daughter,' Once a Week, VI, 21 June 1862, pp. 710-14. Joanna Hiffernan posed for The Major's Daughter (M.302). The sum mentioned (£100) is more than was usual for such works.
These notes may refer to furnishing 7 Lindsey Row, where JW moved in February or March 1863. They were written in brown crayon, with the book the other way up.
82. Tunnel pier
None of the Thames etchings was published with this title. The Thames Tunnel ran between Wapping on the north side of the Thames and Rotherhithe on the south. Tunnel pier, on the north side, is just west of the tunnel, beside Wapping Dock stairs, as shown on Stanford's New Map of London of 1862 (Lochnan, Katharine A., The Etchings of James McNeill Whistler, New Haven and London, 1984, repr. p. 82).
88. R Thomas
Ralph Thomas, Jr (b. 1840/1841), author of the first catalogue of JW's etchings, partner of J. A. Rose, JW's solicitor [more]. This name and address is written in an unknown hand. Kelly's London Postal Directory first lists 1 Powis Place in Bloomsbury, London, in 1866, and confirms it as Thomas's address.
89. 3. Rue d'arcole
The rue d'Arcole in the 4th arrondissement in Paris leads to the Pont d'Arcole, and runs between Notre Dame and the Hotel de Ville. The Pont Neuf crosses the Seine near the Louvre. JW's etching, Isle de la Cité, Paris (K.60), which dates from late 1859, was etched from a window in the Galerie de l'Opéra in the Louvre. JW may have been looking for further viewpoints, for a series of etchings representing London, Amsterdam and Paris.
Wapping is an early study for the oil painting, Wapping (YMSM 35). It shows Joanna Hiffernan, looking out over the river. In 1861, when JW described the painting to Fantin-Latour, the figure was facing the table, as in the finished painting (#08042).
93. Thomas. 48 Lincoln Inn
Probably Percy Thomas (1846-1922), painter and etcher [more], or Ralph Thomas, Jr (b. 1840/1841), author of the first catalogue of JW's etchings, partner of J. A. Rose, JW's solicitor [more]. Kelly's London Postal Directory confirms the address as correct in 1863.
96. Lady with page and courtier, in Tudor dress
Lady with page and courtier, in Tudor dress is a curious Pre-Raphaelite conception, harking back to JW's earlier 'Gothic' genre subjects (M.53, M.62) but it may be by another hand.
97. Le Boeuf de Rembrandt...19.0.0
Rembrandt Harmens van Rijn (1606-1669), painter and etcher [more]. There are several versions of Rembrandt's oil painting, The Carcass of an Ox in a Cellar. Whistler referred to the version now in the Louvre, dated 1655. It was bought by the Louvre at an anonymous auction in Paris in 1857. Several words in this note were over-written in ink by an unknown hand with the result that they are completely illegible.
This is the second of two notes (see p. 27) referring to JW's interest in diamonds or precious stones. No such name as Pasny is listed in Kelly's London Postal Directories, although John Prosser, diamond merchant, was at 7 Warwick Street, off Regent Street, in 1863-64.
100. Lucas - 6 Cork St
Possibly George Aloysius Lucas (1824-1909), art dealer in Paris [more]. From 1860-65, 6 Cork Street was the address of Charles Revans Alexander (d. 1871), surgeon and oculist [more]. It is possible that there were lodgings in the same house or that JW had arranged to meet Lucas there.
101. 1 Victoria Rd Cole
There are several Victoria Roads, including one off Kensington Road, and another in Pimlico (where No. 1 was a pub called the 'Bag of Nails'). No 'Cole' is listed at any 1 Victoria Road, but Kelly's London Postal Directories list Richard Leighton Cole, a social acquaintance of JW [more] at 1 Victoria Street, Westminster in 1864, and John Jenkins Cole (1815-1897), architect [more] at 1 Victoria Terrace, Hornsey Rise, in 1866. This may be entirely coincidental. JW was acquainted for many years with Sir Henry ('King') Cole (1808-1882), civil servant and museum director [more], and his family, but it is not known if there is any connection with this note.
103. Rolfe - 22 Robert St
104. 1 oz. Clory. 1/2 drch. Varnish
A preparation for varnishing pictures or an acid-resistant varnish for etching plates.